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Chongqing News

In the heart of Mountain City Alley resides a “Tangyuan belle”

2024-03-05 15:27:23

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Gong Yilin is cooking Tangyuan. (Photographed by He Qingyu / Visual Chongqing)

CHONGQING (CQNEWS) -- Over 70 years ago, an unnamed Tangyuan bar thrived on Xishuiheng Street in Qiansimen, Yuzhong District. Today, its successor proudly carries on the legacy under the name "Shazixiangxiang Big Tangyuan", breathing new life into the business that has been passed down through generations.

The bar owner is Gong Yilin, a "post-90s" young woman affectionately known as the "Tangyuan Belle" by the patrons frequenting Mountain City Alley.

Beginning: Forebears of four generations’s engagement in Tangyuan business

On March 1, at No.52 Mountain City Alley, Yuzhong, the reporter observed Gong Yilin's Tangyuan bar. Spanning only about a dozen square meters – with an old stove, two square tables, and several benches – all were "antiques" steeped in years. The warm yellow lights cast a nostalgic ambiance, transporting visitors back to the 1930s and 1940s.

That time was when the family’s business started – Gong Yilin’s great-grandmother and grandmother, moved from Fulin to Shizhong (now Yuzhong), started their business in a small alley, set up to sell cigarettes and Tangyuan for the family’s livelihood. It was not long before their Tangyuan gained popularity in the local area.

During that era, many neighboring residents made it a daily ritual to have two bowls of Tangyuan there. For the unnamed establishment, locals referred to it as "the big Tangyuan bar in what alley”. Thus, the artistry of crafting Tangyuan was seamlessly transmitted from one generation to the next. "My mother is the third-generation inheritor, and I am the fourth", shared Gong Yilin.

"When I was a child, my grandmother used to tell me about tales of selling Tangyuan during those times", said Gong Yilin. She recounted how she grew up relishing the Tangyuan crafted by her grandmother. Every market trip to get ingredients involved her grandmother bringing her along. While making Tangyuan at home, her grandmother allowed her to observe. "I practically learned by watching, but it was all crafted by Grandma. Unfortunately, after Grandma passed away a few years ago, that unique flavor is something I can never experience again and I deeply miss it”.

Heritage: Preserving the Taste of Childhood

Inspired by memories of her grandma, Gong Yilin resolved to become a "Tangyuan craftsman”, preserving her grandma's traditional artistry, providing herself and Chongqing residents with a taste of times gone by.

In 2018, Gong Yilin's "Shazixiangxiang Big Tangyuan" opened in Mountain City Alley. Boasting a traditional flavor, her Tangyuan quickly gained the admiration of numerous patrons. Gong Yilin shared a touching encounter, "An 80-year-old man, accompanied by his daughter, visited us for a bowl of Tangyuan reminiscent of his past”. This deeply moved her, prompting her to take time, even in the busiest periods, to connect with guests. Diners took to the internet, sharing photos of Gong Yilin selling Tangyuan, earning her the name of "Tangyuan Belle" among netizens.

Diners appreciate Gong Yilin's skillful mastery of Tangyuan flavors. While most market Tangyuan offer only three types of fillings, hers have approximately 10 condiments including hand-mashed ingredients like peanuts, sesame seeds, black sesame seeds, lard, and more, and each component is meticulously fried and blended in specific proportions.

The craft of fillings also holds many nuanced considerations. Gong Yilin notes that small peanuts are particularly well-suited for creating dumpling stuffing. Fondly recalling her childhood when she accompanied her grandmother to purchase seasonings, all peanuts are the small peanuts. And she now collaborates with farmers in Shizhu, ensuring the cultivation of these specific small peanuts for her Tangyuan.

The lard used is the distinctive black lard produced in Fuling. In essence, adherence to tradition guides every aspect of the process and materials. Gong Yilin emphasized, "It is precisely due to the traditional methods, the use of traditional materials, and the dedication to handmade craftsmanship that the process takes time”. She explained that the dumpling production doesn't occur in the store but rather in a separate workshop elsewhere. With herself, her husband, mother, and two other workers diligently toiling throughout the day, they can only manage to pack a maximum of 1,500 Tangyuan.

Despite being selected as one of the top ten Miss Chongqing, serving as the captain of the Chongqing amateur ice hockey team, and securing victory in the Chongqing Cardin Women's Championship, Gong Yilin chose to open a Tangyuan bar. When asked why, she smiled and expressed her desire to "preserve the taste of childhood memories".

Innovation: Make traditional cuisine rejuvenate

Gong Yilin has been contemplating ways to make Tangyuan more appealing to young people. After numerous experiments, she opted for innovation by introducing double yellow egg dumplings – two charmingly round poached eggs, concealing a delightful combination of quicksand and egg yolk. The outer layer, resembling egg whites, is crafted from sticky milk mochi, creating a novel and delicious blend with Oreo crush and soybean powder.

"When eating, you can coat the mochi with soybean powder and Oreo, with the flavor of fresh milk effortlessly melts in your mouth, offering a unique and delightful taste sensation", Gong Yilin remarked with a smile. Looking ahead, she expressed her intention to continue innovating, introducing more distinctively flavored dumplings alongside the traditional ones. Her goal is to create memorable experiences, allowing more people to savor the taste of a bowl of Tangyuan in their hands.

When ready to leave after the interview, the reporter noticed some words elegantly brushed on the store's wall: "Initial heart, inheritance, and persistence". Perhaps, this not only encapsulates the corporate culture of the Tangyuan bar but also serves as a vivid representation of Gong Yilin's personal journey – adhering to her initial aspirations, pursuing her dreams, upholding her craftsmanship, and staying true to tradition. (Translated by Wang Zhong, Fathom Language Limited)

Editor:Jiang Yiwei